1/24/13

 Huge market in Melaque

Goat stew, just in case you need proof.  It is really delicious!

Went to the Melaque market yesterday, somehow the day before I had pulled a muscle, so it wasn't as enjoyable as it might have been. Still it was fun to see all the beautiful crafts from all over this part of Mexico. Beads, glassware, woven rugs, clothes, so many beautiful things. They also have booths where you can buy housewares, electronics, parts, shoes, you name it! I found some beautiful jewelry, and a pretty dress.

Marcus had been dealing with a vendor walking around with shirts and he found a green shirt he liked, but it was large and Marcus wanted a medium. No sale today for him. After Marcus spent several hours looking for a part for our starter to no avail, so we caught the bus and headed home. Got off of the bus in Barra and started walking the 6 blocks or so to the water taxi dock. Walking the other way was the vendor who had the green shirt, we laughed and waves as we walked by. Suddenly he comes up behind us waiving a green shirt, you guessed it, in Medium. Marcus really likes his new shirt.

1/23/13

Lounging by the pool in a first class resort . . . ahh I could get used to this. You cannot swim in Barra de Navidad lagoon, but the up side is the resort Grand Bay Hotel and we can use the facilities!! 3 pools, the main one has small waterslides and waterfalls. Very refreshing on a hot day.

 Bocci ball on the beach

 Overlooking Tenacatita

Dinghy raft up, everyone brings a snack and we pass around the plates until everthing is gone!

Here and There

still having trouble uploading pictures, will add when I can

1/19/12

“Camp Tenacatita” as it is affectionately called is pretty nice, and I'm sure we will be back. We are ready to up anchor and visit some other places. We also need to do laundry, a shopping trip and a couple of other things that only the big city can provide. Not that Barra or Melaque are big cities, but if they do not have what we need, we can hop on a bus to Manzanillo.

Had a nice dinghy raft up pot luck last night, got to know a few more boats and have a great new bread recipe. No mosquito bites, thank you skin so soft!

Cleaning up the boat so we can head out, we have been here 10 days, twice as long as we have stayed anywhere else this trip! Have to remember we came to Mexico to explore and experience the culture, but it is so nice here . . .

1/14/12

Apparently I am quite the tasty morsel when it comes to Mexican Mosquitoes. I have never had a problem with mosquito bites, so I forgot to put on bug spray. Day 3 and I am getting better, over 50 bites, yikes!

The other night there were a group of panga drivers trying to ski. They could not quite master it, but they really gave it a good try. There are birds here that sound like they are laughing, a little like a Jim Carey laugh. They were in the background laughing up a storm at the water ski attempts.

At popular anchorages there is frequently a morning net where boats in the area check in. There is a call for emergency “traffic”, announcements, services needed and wanted and you can offer things for sale, or ask if someone has something you need. During the storm at Chamela, the french press carafe broke, and it is quite a production to make coffee in the morning. I have been looking for some kind of replacement since but to no avail. Yesterday morning Northern Passage offered a stainless steel french press, YIPPEEE! She wouldn't even accept money. Cruisers are the best.

We crossed the bay yesterday so we could watch the football game at La Manzanilla and get an internet fix. We decided to stay overnight and do some quick shopping the next morning. La Manzanilla has a reputation as a rolly anchorage. It certainly lived up to it's reputation last night. The boat rocked all night, yuck. Oh well, we will head back to the quiet Tenacatita Bay where I will swim to shore in the afternoon and play Mexican Train dominoes while Marcus plays bocci ball. I heard there may be Yoga on the beach this week. My social calender is filling up.

 Cocodrilo

 Tenacatita Beach

Los Cocodrilos in La Manzanilla "do not swim, dangerous area"

Moving on

1/11/13

Tenacatita beach was wonderful, quiet and we mostly had the bay to ourselves. We went to the beach, and on clear days snorkeled at “the Aquarium” On day 3 Mariposa, another Tayana 37 we had met in La Cruz came and anchored in the bay. It was good to see them and we are looking forward to getting to know them better. They have a beautiful boat and Joanne and Chis are a wonderful source of information, and really nice people.

We stayed at Tenacatita beach until we heard on the morning net that there was a panga trip heading to the small town of la Manzania on Friday. Since we were down to our last cup of fresh milk, few eggs and even fewer vegetables, the decision to move was made. One more snorkeling trip and we tidied the cabin and raised the anchor to head to the busy anchorage of Tenacatita, a whopping 5 miles.

Tenacatita was just out of our sight at the beach, but it sounded like they must have 50 boats and they had activities that would put a summer camp to shame. 1Pm, swim to the beach, then dominoes or bocci ball. On Fridays there is a raft up pot luck where everyone ties their dinghy together and passes around appetizers, trade boat cards, books and generally have a lot of fun

1/9/13

Started out on Monday for Paraiso, a very small anchorage probably an hour or less from Chamela. We were ready for a little quiet time and this small spot in front of an Estate home seemed like it would fit the bill. It was everything we had hoped for, except there were 2 other boats that had already had the same thoughts of solitude. While we could have fit, using both a bow and stern anchor to prevent swinging, it just didn't feel right.

Just a couple of hours further was Bahia Careyes and while it was not high on our list, we decided the “Mexican Rievera” with it's mansions and condominiums was worth a visit. When we arrived, the chart the guidebook provided just didn't match with what we were seeing, and we glumly decided to head further south to Bahia Tenacatita. This is where I hooked a beautiful Dorado, some of the prettiest and best eating fish around. Unfortunately JUST as he was along side the boat, I started to bring him up into the boat while Marcus gaffed him, he got away. We had chicken cacciatore for dinner.

We arrived around 4pm and planned to anchor in the North anchorage, next to an excellent snorkeling spot dubbed “the aquarium”. Tenacatita is one of the most popular bays on the “Gold Coast” of Mexico, and we were astounded to find no one anchored there. It was lovely and we had a nice quiet evening there.

There are a handful of homes scattered along the bay, and a restaurant nearest the entrance as well a a large pink hotel nearby. The story goes that 2 years ago a man came and claimed title to the land here. There were small tiendas and restaurants that lined the beach and he bulldozed most of the tiendas and through everyone out. Not sure of the validity, but it is said that he bribed a judge to obtain title to the and, and the battle is on in the Mexican Legal system. The restaurant houses the guards that are established here to keep everyone away from all the land and buildings except the beach, which is government land. I believe the Jefe (boss) lives in the big pink hotel. It is so sad to think of the people that lost their businesses.
It is still a beautiful place and the snorkeling is wonderful. So we have our lovely peaceful anchorage after all.

 Diane and her beautiful beachfront home.

Pollo carbon

Maybe I forgot to mention Cypress somehow managed to get fleas in the middle of the ocean. 

 He was NOT a happy camper.

1/5/13 Went to town to pick up a few things before we leave to more isolated places. Picked up some chicken “carbon” bbq, a little spendy at almost $10 but it will last us probably 3 meals. Also went to lunch and met some people who had a house here. They invited us over to see it, beautiful place on the beach. If you are looking to rent a place here it is very nice and reasonable. They are from Amador, near our home base in the states. Such a small world.

Sun has been shining and we are enjoying a nice few days. Today we will anchor over at an island and maybe go snorkeling.

 Vendor ready to sell beach toys

 Little juice tienda in the front yard

 Lawn chairs for sale

 I've never seen a cross quite like this one

Meeting a few of the locals

Wet and windy for 3 days, this is a challenging anchorage anyway and to add the swells coming in from the storm makes for tricky dinghy landings. We watch for wave sets, usually 3 sets of waves followed by a short calm period. The best way is to follow right after the last wave into the shore, ride the crest as far into the shore as you can, jump out and drag the dinghy up the sand before the next wave comes in. Sometimes you have a good landing, sometimes you end up all wet, but anytime nobody gets hurt, it's a good day.

Catching up on posts, I've been without internet for a bit and now that I have it, I can't seem to post pictures.  Will post them when I can.

 Coconut milk

 On the streets of Chamela

 Catchin some Z's

 Beach town treasures

 Casa Marcos for sale $300,000!!!

 Opening coconut with machete

Young guys out canoeing on vacation.

New Years Eve Chamella:

We were on the boat all afternoon, no real chance to chat with other boats in the anchorage. Chamela is across the bay, and the little village in the North bay is a Mexican tourist town. Lots of parties till dawn, the oompa band music is a nightly serenade and New Years Eve is celebrated with music and fireworks. All the next day it rains, but the parties on shore continue as well as the taxi boats coming from Chamela. It is rainy and overcast, but many people are still swimming and having a great time. Wet but warm weather.

We stay on the boat and do boat chores, caught water and did laundry, but it hasn't dried in 2 days. We celebrated New Years day with linguine in clam sauce and a carrot cake and I finished 2 books.

12/29/12 We had planned on spending New Years Eve in La Cruz, but after a week we were rested and a little restless. Checking the weather, we saw a cold spell with rain coming and if we didn't leave right away, we would be in La Cruz for at least another week. Within an hour we had up anchored and headed south again. After a week in port I needed to make sure the cabin was secure so nothing would slide, slip or swing open. We got it all together and although we didn't sail as much as we liked, we had a quiet nite and dropped anchor at about 4:30 the next day, 23 hours. Not a lot of sea life this trip, but I did see a ray flip after we arrived, looking for more because I know that when you see one ray above water, there are hundreds under water. Not today, just one little flip. Can't wait to go snorkeling!

As we settled in to relax after the long passage, a call came out on the radio, it was from Toloache, a trawler that arrive the same time we did. He had caught a Dorado and was offering to share since there was too much fish for him to eat alone. We apparently were the only boat in the anchorage that had their radio on, so the three of us shared a nice meal of yummy Dorado, rice an a green salad. Green salad is a real treat down here, as lettuce is expensive and does not hold well.

The rain started the second day we were here, we had made a quick trip into town, knowing it would come. Nice Canadian guy helped us land and launch the boat. It is a little tricky here and we almost swamped the boat coming in, but we will get better. It was exciting heading back out because the motor died once, trying to time the waves is pretty tricky even with the motor.

Night dolphin ghosts:

It is early in the morning, no moon and dark dark dark. Suddenly I see a flash of phosphorescence in the water. It looks like torpedoes speeding towards the boat. DOLPHINS! You never actually see the dolphins, their ghost like images dance and spin racing alongside the boat and across the bow. It is an awesome performance just for me!
I'm digging deep, trying to convey the magical experience, but I am falling short. Magical, amazing.

12/25/12 We had a nice, although very different Christmas this year. The Sunday before Christmas we located an English speaking church, very nice people, but we arrived late and if they sang Christmas carols we missed them. The people were nice .

The living standards are very different from the US, the houses are older and the outsides look pretty rough. But this is Mexico, America many years ago did not have the uniform disinfected look it has today. So I struggle with whether this is poverty, or just different standards. We choose to live here, as do many others because it is so inexpensive to live here. But are we exploiting poor people?

When I go out, I see gringos frequenting the little tiendas around here, spending money, I see shops and stores earning money that support their families. That is much better than charity in my book. Philo's is a gringo establishment catering to boaters and expats and has local staff, many whom are putting themselves through college. The marina is beautiful and there is a lot of money here. It may look like excess in an area of poverty, but look closer and you will see employment opportunities: dock workers, waitstaff, janitors, landscapers, cleaning staff, etc. There are also a number of small businesses; tiendas, tortilliarillas, lavandarias (laundries), ice cream stores, canvas shops, beauty salons, boat repair, boat cleaning, restaurants, recyclers etc. I cannot know for certain, but it seems logical that the inflow of money improves the lives of the people here.

Some people seem to view the Christmas party that included handing out donated gifts to the local children as gringo paternalism or superiority. I didn't see it that way, it was a fun to see the children excited about seeing Santa, and I'm sure more than one person was missing family back home and this was their way to reach out to kids and share the Christmas spirit.

12/25/12

Long trip across the pacific from Cabo San Lucas to the mainland. Dropped the anchor at La Cruz around 5am. It was warm and nice to be in a place we knew we would not be leaving anytime soon. We had “arrived”, 2 days before Christmas.

This trip we have not made any “buddy boats”, boats that are going the same direction you are around the same time. Usually buddy boats become friends and on long passages loosely travel together. I guess because we made the trip so quickly we didn't have the opportunity. Now we are in a large group of cruisers and snowbirds that we hope to establish some relationships.

The anchorage here is nice, however, we decided to take a slip for Christmas so we could easily Skype family and friends. I am frustrated by the challenges I am having connecting to the internet, not sure if it is the computer or the hotspots, but it is incredibly frustrating. If I don't have internet access, that is one thing, but if I am supposed to have it I try and try; restart, unplug, check connections, check with the source etc. The main point of pulling into a marina is to have good, easy Wi-fi connections.

We spent Christmas Eve walking around La Cruz, doors to homes were open as well as gates so we were able to see how this Mexican village celebrates Christmas. There were Christmas decorations as well as trees and lights. That is not to say they looked anything like the grand displays found in the US. The homes here are basic, with cement floors and would probably be considered the poorest of the poor in the US. They are clean and the people here seem happy, when we attempt conversation in Spanish, they respond with smiles and are happy to wish us a buen dia, or Felice Navidad.

We are living a dream it is true, but like any dream, there is a cost. I miss my family and wish I could be there with them to enjoy Christmas, but at lease we have Skype to be able to see and talk to everyone.

Today we will go to Philo's for a cruisers Christmas dinner, I believe around 200 people will be there and they have collected over 700 gifts for Santa to give to the local children.